Makeup

The definitive guide to master your makeup: 18 steps to do it like a makeup artist

The definitive guide to master your makeup
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Written by Kathreen Rose

STEP # 1:  Cleanse before make-up

Cleanse before make-up

hack number one to ensure that the makeup always looks beautiful and that you’re not damaging your skin while your make up is on, is to make sure your face is clean before, it can be quiet a few hours between when you’ve cleansed or had a shower from the time you do your makeup, so cleansing you face before you sit down to do your makeup is an important step.

STEP# 2 : Prep with a face mask in place of moisturizer

Prep with a face mask in place of moisturizer

Every professional makeup-artist master class start with putting moisturizer on the client face, but if you have really oily skin and you’re afraid of putting moisturizer before your makeup you don’t have to, if you have the time put a mask on and you will get the best results, for red-carpets events for example, artists often do a full facial before they put their makeup on, so after putting the mask you can take a moment while it soaks in to listen to music or a podcast or do whatever relaxes you and get you in the mood to do your makeup and enjoy it.

STEP# 3 : Use makeup wipes to remove your mask

remove your mask

Even though the mask is removed your skin is now supple and plump and it’s going to look amazing underneath your makeup.

STEP # 4: Use fake tan for semi-permanent contouring

fake tan

We will use for this step a natural tan like “James Read Tan” put it where you would usually apply contour or bronzer for a beautiful semi-permanent makeup that will last for a few days, and it’s going to develop while we have our makeup on.

We need a black sponge and a clean face to get started.

Take a little bit on your fingers and swipe it gently all over the top of your face, then with a black sponge blend it in, once you’ve got most of it on take the sponge and blend it out even further so you’ve got a nice natural result, also dabbing it over your nose makes it looks more real because the nose is obviously the first place that the sun would hit.

You can’t see the final result right away but it will develop over the time that you’ve got your makeup on.

You can leave this for the whole day and it looks just great, it’s a very natural light fake tanner.

This is a facial tanner I think that putting a body tanner on would be way too much because your face is, of course, more delicate and you don’t want to be putting heavy dark tanner.

Step # 5 : Layer primer with powder for extra defense against oiliness

Layer primer with powder for extra defense against oiliness

Another excellent tip for pore filling and for mattifying is to lay out your primer with powder.

First, apply a pore filling primer to the t-zone, this is great for oily skins, then use your finger to press that in and over the top of your primer (to make sure that you’re getting the most matte effect) take a pore filling smoothing powder so you can take that into the t-zone and swirl it into the pores making sure to go clockwise and anti-clockwise.

You will be surprised how smooth your skin feels after that.

Step # 6: Highlight under foundation for a “lit from within” look

Highlight under foundation

If you don’t like a full-on highlighter try applying it underneath your foundation, take your favorite foundation and bounce it over your face starting in the t-zone and the center of the face and working out, and try not to go over the highlighter because that area is not going to need as much coverage and we also want the highlighter to show through right 🙂

Step # 7 : Mist face with setting spray between foundation layers:

Mist face with setting spray

If you want to layer your foundation between layers try spritzing your face with setting spray or dewy spray so that the foundations will melt in together again and you won’t get patchy nuts, you just have to dampen the foundation again to get it back to that more emollient kind of texture so you can build and build.

Step # 8: Apply a lip mask early in your routine

apply a lip mask early in your routine

When you’re ready to move on you can do a lip mask

With whatever’s left, rob it on your fingers and put it on your cuticles

Step # 9 : Adjust foundation shade with contouring/highlighting

Adjust foundation shade with contouring

Most of the time, the foundation is a little bit too light for your body so you want to match it up slightly, we are going to try and deepen up our skin tone just by contouring, this is going to even everything out, then with a makeup sponge blend it in and it should, when looking at the face as a whole, bring it all together and make you look a little deeper in skin tone.

The other way around if you think you put your foundation too dark you can highlight so you can put concealer in the t-zone area, nose, under the eyes and chin so when you look at yourself as a whole it should look more matching.

Step # 10: Use multiple concealer shades

concealer shades

When it comes to concealer we recommend waiting until you’ve done all your contouring and highlighting and finished applying all your cream products before you go ahead and use this

Keep in mind that you might need multiple colors of concealer because on different parts of your face you have different tones, so we use the light concealer, for example, on the areas of our face that are the lightest and make sure that it matches very well.

Step# 11 : Cleaning swatches and spot cleaning brushes

Cleaning swatches and spot cleaning brushes

While it’s drying we are going to clean off our brush with makeup wipes and we are not going to use this brush to be depositing more concealer and muddling things around.

Step# 12: Allow concealer to set before blending

Allow concealer to set before blending

If you still have a heavy concentration of concealer or things you want to conceal then just blend it around the edges and when you’re done don’t forget to clean off the brush again, that way you will avoid any surprises if you have to grab this brush later for something else.

Step #13: Colour correct and conceal very sparingly

Colour correct and conceal very sparingly

If you have under eyes circles or discoloration that you want to hide just take a color correcting fluid and put it in exactly where you see it, so you don’t have to draw it in like a big thick chunk, instead build it little by little  and only then we can dot a little of concealer over the top.

Lifehack: You don’t need that much especially if you have dry under eyes or if you have really dark under-eye circles, it just can end up making the situation look worse if the texture under your eyes looks bad.

Then you just blend it up into the under-eye area, try not to put too much product there because that’s what all your little creases are, and your concealer will go in them.

Step #14: Check your foundation has set before powdering

Check your foundation has set before powdering

If you’re the kind of person that loves to powder your makeup just wait 10 minutes if possible because your makeup may not be all set yet and if you go and apply powder all over the top of wet or unset makeup you could move it around inadvertently with your brush and the powder could mix with the wetness of your makeup and eventually look darker than it should, so it’s best to wait and then do a light dusting later or even blot with a blotting paper before you powder but if you want my advice just don’t powder, you don’t have to, especially if you have a good foundation.

Step #15: Press in powder highlight with setting spray

Press in powder highlight with setting spray

You will notice the light shining through your foundation thanks to applying the glow underneath

If that glow isn’t enough for you and you still want to apply a powder highlight, just go ahead and do it, but sometimes you may find that powder sit on top of the skin rather than looking like a part of it as a liquid would, but there is a way to make your powder highlight look like the liquid highlight with just one simple step:

Take your setting spray, spritz it on a brush and then pat all over the top to work that product into the skin, and because you’re using the setting spray it’s also going to help with the longevity of that highlighter because you’re working the setting qualities in with the highlighter, make sure you’re using patting motions though because you don’t want to swipe anything off.

Step #16: Be creative with blush

Be creative with blush

You must be careful about blush because sometimes it can make you look a little bit like a clown, so you can take some of your blush and go ahead and dust it right over wherever you want, various makeup artists advise to apply a little bit of blush to your forehead, it’s a great way to tie in all those colors together, that will make it look more like a color you’re naturally emitting from your skin and not just blush that you’ve swiped on your face, you will also like to put a little on the nose and chin.

Step #17: Apply mascara immediately after setting spray

Apply mascara immediately after setting spray

When your skin is ready to go, take your setting spray again and spritz it on your face after you’ve done powder and everything, now the thing is to take your mascara immediately and because the lashes are damp it makes it easy to manipulate and maneuver the mascara without it clumping.

Step # 18: Match your lipstick to your cheeks for the perfect shade

Match your lipstick to your cheeks for the perfect shade

When it’s time to do lips we’ll remove the lip mask and you’ll notice your lips are super soft and ready to go with a lipstick, and if you want to find your perfect natural lip color a really good tip is to match it with your blush and find your perfect combination of both, another good way to find your perfect lip color is to either match it to your actual lip color or you can pinch your cheeks and find what color your body naturally flushes.

It’s often very difficult to get a really nice crisp line at the edge of your lips from a lipstick bullet especially after you’ve used it more than a couple of times, so apply it as well as you can and then go around the edges with that.

throughout the time that you wear lipstick, you generally rub your lips together so the product ends up moving towards the outer part of the lips and it mostly rubs off on the inner part anyway, so when you need to reapply just pop it in the center of the lip and rub, the outer part of your lipstick will probably stay fresh and crisp just as you put it and fix it with the concealer so when you’re touching up make sure to do that and you will be all good.





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Kathreen Rose